Day 120, Saturday 29 April

It doesn’t happen often enough. But today it did. And when it does, my world is a different place. It makes me smile and sing aloud. I feel all conquering, powerful and so close to being able to fly. Above all, it makes me fast. So today, I arrived early. Yes, the wind was on my back!

Heading North, from Lough Derg to Lough Ree, through the soft and gentle Irish Midlands, through the well-managed peat bogs, on flat, straight roads, with the wind from the South.

Just when you think hospitality could not get any better, it does. The bar was set high right from the start. Maybe I’m just becoming more appreciative but I’m also beginning to remember what might be at the heart of the matter. As already found in the more remote coastal communities of Scotland, Wales and parts of England, there is usually a sense of community and belonging amongst those involved with the local Lifeboat, like having another family. In the small town or village where a Lifeboat Station exists, that connection extends to almost the whole community. More on this philosophy later….

Meanwhile, back in Lough Ree, thank you Tony McCarth (LOM) for being such a good host and introducing me to so many of your team, including Vincent (treasurer), Bernard (mech), Stan (helm), Eamon (shore crew) and Rachel June,  the two ILB crew who donned their full kit for the photos. Thank you all so much. A great atmosphere here today, coinciding with a major fundraising event this evening, including a hog roast and live music in the local Lough Ree Inn where it seems the entire Coosan Point community have gathered. A good time was certainly had by all and the funds raised are expected to be very generous. Not sure if anyone stayed up to count the cash. Well done to all you good people for showing your support for your local Lifeboat.

Sunday morning (too late to write last night). Lots to say about Lough Ree ILB Station at Coosan Point, just north of Athlone. You couldn’t be much further from the sea. To quote Tony, If you were asked to stick a pin in the dead centre of a map of Ireland, it would probably be stuck right here. Sixty miles inland from Galway bay this fresh water lake on the course of the Shannon can at times be more hazardous than the sea. The leisure boating season is already picking up. This is one of the busiest Lifeboat Stations in Ireland. The day before I arrived, they’d already had nine shouts (emergency launches/rescues) this season. By the time I left this morning they’d had two more. Nothing to do with me or any of the party revellers last night. Both incidents were similar cases of hired leisure craft running aground. Amazingly, anyone can hire a boat and head out into this vast open lake on a rough, windy day, with no previous experience. No licence needed. Thankfully, neither boat was holed and both situations were resolved by the skilled Lifeboat crew’s action. Many others each year are not so lucky.

Today, I was the lucky one, taking advantage of someone else’s misfortune or inexperience by witnessing and filming (I’ll try to upload from Garmin cam at some point) the return and recovery of the Lough Ree Lifeboat after another successful outcome.

Day 119, Friday 28 April

Fully rested and refuelled after a day off in Ballyvaughan, in the company of two good women (it’s OK, I’m married to at least one of them) it is time to re-load the mule (sorry Fondo) and set off, away from the Burren coast for three days.

Heading for the inland waters of Lough Derg today, Lough Ree tomorrow (each having an RNLI Inshore Lifeboat Station) then back to Galway on Sunday.

A new challenge: How do I find the next two Lifeboats by the usual method of just keeping the sea on my left, when they’re not anywhere near the sea? Easy. A good old paper map, a tiny Garmin and a pair of divining sticks. It seemed to work but I could swear the last 15 miles were via the lush rolling hills of Devon.

73 miles and 5hrs 30 mins of cycling later, I was greeted at Lough Derg Inshore Lifeboat Station by a great welcoming committee! Many thanks to Liam, (LOM) for mustering so many of his local RNLI team, including Laura, Niamh and Pat from the fundraising committee; Claire (Training co-ord) and Dean (ILB crew). Thank you all for turning out. In this idyllic setting it was easy to understand why so many people are drawn to the waters of this huge lough, and why each year a number of them underestimate the hazards and get into difficulties. Lough Derg Lifeboat Station was declared operational on 25 May 2004. Located at Dromineer on the eastern shore of Lough Derg, the largest lake on the Shannon, stretching for 22 miles from Portumna in the north to Killaloe in the South. But it’s not only those on yachts, cruisers and in kayaks that are rescued by these local Lifeboat volunteers. I heard some very interesting tales of animal rescue in recent years! This was the first fresh-water RNLI Station to be set up in Ireland. Surely, after 13 years of service, now deserving better accommodation and facilities than a Portacabin and a couple of small shipping containers.

Thanks once more to the good people of Dromineer, including Liam for sorting my accommodation at Declan’s perfectly sighted and very comfortable Lough Derg House on the lake shore, including a very full, Full Irish and porridge breakfast with great home made bread. Cheers also to the jolly Margaret & Pauline and Caleb at The Whiskey Still, another great food pub. Seafood Tagliatelle highly recommended.

Good luck with the Mayday fundraising events!

Day 118, Weds 26 April

Another day with no Lifeboat Station visit. They’re getting further apart, especially by way of the coast roads. With tomorrow a scheduled rest day I won’t reach the next one until late afternoon on Friday. Just a few landmarks to pass on my way around the Clare coastline to today’s destination at Ballyvaughan. Talking of Clare, the namesake of my good wife Claire, with one-too-many vowels and another Irish County (Monaghan) for a maiden name,  joined me here at Spanish Point last night, along with our old friend Rae. The latter-day Thelma & Louise have turned up on a road trip to explore the west coast of Ireland. Good job they’re​ not driving an open top convertible today. But they do have room for my panniers!

So, on a Full-Irish/Spanish Point breakfast (the best yet, thanks to our lovely hosts Phil and Sean at Cois Na Tra, highly recommended B&B), off we set. We three things were going quite far, one on a bicycle, two in a car. Northward leading, still proceeding, meeting later at Monk’s Bar.

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Another wonderful, scenic ride. This time around the dramatic coast of County Clare, via the gigantic, over-populated Cliffs of Moher and around the seaward edge of The Burren. A hare and tortoise affair. The ladies in the sporty Golf were beaten by the old guy on a bicycle.

Geologically speaking, the Burren really is a strange but fascinating place.  A day off with the ladies tomorrow then back on the road on Friday, when it will be time to head inland for the Lifeboats on two very big Loughs.

Day 117, Tues 25 April 

A couple of days ahead with no Lifeboat Station to visit until Galway. Just another “extreme” cycle out to the Loop Head Lighthouse at the end of another long peninsula. If I chose the shortest route between Lifeboat Stations, this would cut a much straighter line across country, saving many miles and hours of pedalling. However, my personal challenge and preference is to see not only every Lifeboat but also every interesting bit of the coastline of Ireland accessible on a safe road. Also, more miles cycled = more funds raised if I can achieve the £1 per mile target set. (Struggling a bit!)

So, today’s first 25 miles are in the “wrong” direction, heading out to the Lighthouse at the westerly tip of County Clare at Loop Head.

Another “exreme” factor in today’s ride is the weather. 20-30 mph cold north wind all day, heavy showers, stinging hail and a few lovely sunny spells.

One advantage of reaching the end of Loop Head is the 360° horizon. This means that you can see what’s about to hit you from the North. Enough time for a brief tour of this historic cafe-free zone offering no shelter? No. Hopefully, just enough time for a quick dash back to habitation at Kilbaha, where I’m sure I spotted a small café.

I was wrong about the timing. I could see what I thought was heavy rain reaching landfall a short distance to my left. A few seconds later, stinging hail was bouncing off my knees, head and face, only partly protected through an over-ventillated holey helmet.

But I was right about the café. A sight for sore eyes. What a haven. What a reception. What a find! I was spoiled rotten by the three wonderful young ladies running the show at Kilbaha Gallery, Crafts and Café. A comfortable seat was proffered, between a roaring peat-fired stove and a counter heavily laden with a large selection of locally baked cakes, pies and tarts. My jacket was taken and hung to dry by the stove. Steaming coffee and warm sticky toffee pudding appeared. The three angels seemed genuinely impressed and interested in my situation. Was I dreaming all this? There was even a basket full of emergency tools and spares for cyclists caught out at the remote end of this long peninsula, including the kind of high pressure track pump I needed for Fondo’s now marginally under-inflated tyres. Many thanks to Liz, Ailish and Rose for your very warm welcome, kindness and generous contribution to the RNLI. And for making the sun shine once more. This place is well worth a visit, near the historic landmark of Loop Head Lighthouse. Kilbaha also has a long history of aiding shipping on the hazardous approaches to the Shannon estuary. The tragic loss of the Five Pilots of Kilbaha are movingly commemorated at their beautiful memorial on the sea front. On a thankfully much less tragic scale, there is still a desire in this community to offer shelter in a storm to passing travellers.

There still remained another 35 miles of stunning scenery and challenging conditions before reaching Spanish Point via Kilkee.

With more references to great loss along this shoreline, from the wrecking of most of the ships of the Spanish Armada in 1588 to the acute loss of one of the young local Irish Coastguard crew called to service last summer, a sobering reminder that the cruel sea will never be tamed and we desperately need to support our brave Coastguard and Lifeboat voluteers.

If you haven’t recently helped already, please do. Regular, modest donations are needed to fund the training and equipment essential to RNLI crews. 

Click here. Thanks.

Day 116, Monday 24 April

I suppose it had to happen. After 12 dry days in Ireland, most of them glorious, I awoke to the sound of more than one drop of rain on my window pane. Nother much yet, but big, dark, heavy clouds rolling in from the North. Thanks to Brian and the team for your hospitality at The West End and your kind concession in support of the Lifeboats. Looking back across the bay towards today’s cloud covered mountains on the Dingle peninsula, I’m pleased I managed to get over the Connor Pass yesterday.

Within 10 minutes of cycling into this morning’s much cooler northerly headwind, the feeling of being in touch with nature was heightened by the addition of a 15 minute downpour. A thorough test for the waterproof jacket and four yellow bag covers. I still haven’t found the ideal cyclists’ rain jacket. Is there really such a thing as a lightweight, water repellent and breathable jacket?

No matter today, the rest of the ride was dry, so the already wet-both-sides outer layer was soon peeled off to use the cool blow-dry effect of battling into wind to some advantage.

County Kerry has the longest, least straight coastline. It also seems to have some of the roughest, bone-shaking surfaces. The effect of hitting the occasional smooth stretch of properly laid new black-top is tremendous. The noise suddenly changes from the sound of a frantic punch-up to the gentle hiss of low resistant slick tyres, as Fondo accelerates rapidly with no increased effort from me. One of those magic moments.

Following the last bit of the northern edge of the county gradually takes us more easterly as we curve into the Shannon estuary, heading for the ferry crossing at Tarbert. This is where I must already start today’s expressions of gratitude to the good people of County Clare, in particular, those of Kilrush and even more specifically, the LOM at Kilrush Lifeboat Station. Thanks Pauline, for all the unexpected treats and preparing the way for such a great run-in, beginning with the welcome-aboard, free passage and coffee & KitKat on the ride across the mighty Shannon. Thank you Dermot Glyn and Simone & ferry crew. Next was Pauline’s instruction to call in to the stunning Vandeleur Walled Gardens where Mairead, manager of the Woodlands Bistro had offered lunch. A great welcome there from Shawna and Karoly, Vandeleur staff and volunteer Lifboat crew members. Great food in an amazing setting. Thank you all so much. And eventually, down to the Kilrush Lifeboat Station to meet Pauline herself, along with Finton (DLA), Brian & Martina (crew) and Stephen, visiting RNLI trainer and Achill Island ex mech.

Out of time … more to follow, including photos. Just time for one more mention, thanks Ethna at Hillcrest, Kilrush, for the luxury B&B and your great support for your local Lifeboat. Loop Head and Spanish Point next, and a rendesvous with a couple of  very familiar faces!

Day 115, Sunday 23 April
With just one more day of the ups & downs, and ins & outs of the long and rugged coastline peninsulas of the southwest of Ireland, I’m already beginning to feel nostalgic and reluctant to move on. This being a coastal cycle ride, I haven’t really been able to fully appreciate the inland challenges of the Caha Mountains of Beara, or MacGillycudddy’s Reeks inside the Ring of Kerry.
But, having already been around the western end of the Dingle peninsula and back to Dingle town, an inland treat lay in store for me today. Up and over the Connor Pass, on the high road to Tralee.

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Some very helpful road signs clarified the challenge ahead. With no luggage, Chris Froome’s legs and being just 32 years of age, I would be over this pass in under 30 minutes. In my dreams. Re-load the bags, halve the leg length, re-double the years…
I still enjoyed the long, slow grind to the top. The views, even on an overcast day, were well worth the effort. As for the dash back down to sea level, as a responsible parent and grandparent, I refuse to reveal my average or maximum downhill speed. When the force of gravity is on my side, I’ll never grow up.
This morning’s coffee stop was (quite accidentally) well chosen. I had the pleasure of meeting Michael O’Neil, landlord of the old Railway Tavern at Camp, on the Tralee road. He is a well known local character, an official Man o’ the West. But not as famous as his now demised dog Bobby, the À list celebrity singing Jack Russell. His live performances included a perfectly timed “woof woof” in a performance of “How much is that doggy in the window” and very tuneful backing vocals to Elvis Presley’s “Ain’t nothin but a hound dog”

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Michael is now a little older than when these postcards were first on sale but his now silver beard is still a very distinguished full set. The three famous postcard beards are: the late Pecker Dunne, travelling minstrel; Michael O’Neill himself; and local hero Denny who, in pre mobile phone society was the self appointed village phone attendant, on costant standby to answer incoming calls and pass on mesages to local no-phoners. To this day, he still sits outside the now unused phone box, waiting… Also in today’s photo is Bobby’s successor, a less vocal but very alert and sociable Jack Russell, plus two leather clad motorcycle tourers, Dubliner Gerry and Irish-Ozzie Tom Dooley. You couldn’t make it up. Thank you all for such a memorable coffee break and your generous RNLI contributions.
I did eventually reach today’s destination. Fenit All-weather (and Inshore) Lifeboat Station. With over 100 years of recorded Lifeboat history (minus a mid 20th century temporary lapse of service), this Station now has a Trent Class ALB and Aqua-docked D Class ILB, based in the unusual end-of-pier harbour. This allows them to respond to calls for help way out in the deep Atlantic Ocean and around the shallow waters of Tralee Bay. Many thanks to full-time Station Mechanic and active crew member Kevin and Fundraising Chairman, retired teacher, local sailor and great storyteller Mike O’Connor.

Day 114, Sat 22 April 

Sad farewells to Kells. I loved the Beach Pod. The right shape to put on wheels and steal away behind a cart-horse or two. But not with a thoroughbred race-bike like Fondo.  First stop Killorglin, a lovely little town where I couldn’t resist a photo of King Puck himself, central character of hundreds of years of tradition, standing proudly on his stone plinth. Then another meeting with Mick from Kells, working in the same town today, who insisted I joined him for his lunch break as I was passing through, then insisted I had one of his sandwiches. What a great new friend I have. I tried to refuse but I’m glad I didn’t. I’ve never had a roast duck, avocado and beetroot pickle sandwich before. Delicious. Typical lunch fodder for a hard working Irish landscape gardener.

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Less than an hour up the road the fuel tank was empty again. Next cafe, must stop. O’Brien’s of Castlemain, a general store which really did seem to sell everything, including hot snacks of any description, made to order. Many thanks to the lovely Sinead at the deli counter for quickly producing the less adventurous sounding, but still very nourishing, classic bacon & egg sandwich, along with a kind donation to the cause.

Did the Romans ever reach here? The road from Castlemain suggests so. After the typical rolling, winding roads of the Ring of Kerry along the east-bound south side of Dingle Bay, the first 12 miles heading back west on the north side of the bay were as straight as an arrow. Not really monotonous, but my mind did wander, along those straight but bumpy miles, about the confusing use of units of distance. Most signs now show kilometres, but the occasional old cast iron signpost still displays miles. Curiously, the huge sand spit beach now on my left, perfect for horse racing, stretching more than half way out into the bay, is called Inch. After a winding inland climb and downhill dash, I found myself in Dingle Town ahead of schedule. A quick decision needed. Is there enough fuel in the tank to extend today’s fifty-two miler by another 20? If so, I could do the Slea Head Ride around to the most westerly point. Check in to local B&B, bags unloaded. Sun still shining. Away …

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A significant five minutes of fame for Fondo. At Dunmore Head, looking west, the most westerly bicycle in Ireland! And probably Northern Europe.

A longer day on the road than planned. But that’s good. Fewer miles tomorrow.

Day 113, Friday 21 April 

What’s the best way to spend a scheduled catch-up/rest day when you’re on schedule and the sun is still shining? Easy. Cycle the short distance from Valentia Island to Kells Beach, where Eileen and Mick have kindly offered the use of one of their Beach Pods. Come on, all you glampers. Check out http://www.kellsbeachcamping.com

This place is perfect. Next to a beautiful beach with views across the water from the Ring of Kerry to the Dingle peninsula in a solid, stormproof, insulated ‘tent’ with real beds and 13 amp sockets, an immaculate kitchen/dining/shower/wc building about 25 paces away, run by the salt-of-the-Kerry-earth hosts, Eileen and Mick (who explained his Valentia/Kells-Lowestoft link via the band Darkness). Thank you both, for your kind hospitality and RNLI support, great company, plus sharing your very tasty Thai takeaway from just up the road, courtesy of Billy at Kells Bay House, another good RNLI supporter.

Day 112, Thurs 20 May

A shorter cycle today, just the 40 miles around the western end of the Ring of Kerry. I’ve run out of superlatives to describe the awesome beauty of the South West of Ireland.

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Valentina Island has one of the earliest Severn Class All-weather Lifeboats. Being moored on the Atlantic Ocean 24/7 means that the 22 year old is beginning to mature a little, with fading orange paint on her superstructure. Nevertheless, on closer inspection she still looks the business, clearly very well maintained by full time mechanic Leo. Today, for maintenance reasons the boat is secured alongside the more accessible Knight’s Town harbour floating pontoon, making her easier to photograph on this glorious, calm spring evening.

Many thanks to Richard (Cox’n), Leo (Mechanic), and Liam (LPO and Paramedic) for the kind welcome, tea & biscuits and stabling for Fondo overnight. The immaculate boathouse is as clean as my spotless hotel room at the Royal Valentia, who have kindly put me up for a greatly reduced fee in support of my RNLI fundraising efforts. Which, incidentally, reminds me – if any one you know is looking for a most worthy cause to support, please pass on this link:

http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/fundraiser-web/fundraiser/showFundraiserProfilePage.action?userUrl=stevenmcallister1

Day 111, Weds 19 April

The longest, toughest, but most rewarding cycling day so far. No Lifeboat Station for the next 130 or so miles, so just the 70 miles today, with 1,372 metres of climbing, 6hrs 18mins in the saddle and 4299 kCals burned on the hardest but most picturesque climbs to-date, on the Ring of Beara and a little of the Ring of Kerry.