Day 36  Mon 4 April:   My preferred routine start to the day – porridge followed by scrambled eggs, sometimes with a little bacon or Stornoway black pudding. Same today but with the Mallaig Moorings’ added twist – whiskey. Never before have I been tempted at this time of the day but a wee dram in the porridge on a grey, damp morning? Aye, go on then. It worked well! Thanks Heather, for the comfy bed, a good start to the day and your generous donation to the cause. The running total raised for the RNLI is growing steadily but as the cycle miles roll by, just a bit behind the £1 per mile target.

Another smooth ferry crossing. This time to the Isle of Skye. Speed bonny boat. With the Skye Boat Song stuck in my head all morning, my mind wanders back once more to Park Street Primary School, Llanelli. Who remembers the BBC sing-along broadcasts, where a huge wireless was brought into the classroom? “Good morning children. Today we shall sing The Skye Boat Song. Please open your booklet and turn to page …”  Yes kids, we already had wireless in Llanelli, even before my time in the ’50s &’60s.

Someone has clearly been spending lots of money on lovely new road surfaces on parts of Skye. It really helps. I can now look around and gawp at the snow capped mountains and Highland cattle without having to stare down to find a safe line through at a rough, torn, potholed road surface.

Strange though it may seem, the best route to the next destination,  Kyle of Lochalsh RNLI Station,  takes us over the new Skye Bridge twice. Well it did for me on Fondo. Neil & Kate liked it so much they took the van over it four times. The K of L Lifeboat Station is perfectly placed with their Atlantic 85 Inshore Rescue boat, midway between Mallaig and Portree. It’s role further justified with the building of the Skye Bridge and the sad connotations that come with the fragility of some, seeking a quick route to the afterlife. Many thanks today to Sandy (LOM) for making time to greet me and sign the now well-worn chart and presenting me with the Kyle Pennant, now hanging proudly in the van.  Our first! It was also good to meet Murdo (crew/helmsman) at their very well appointed ‘new’ boathouse.

Day 35  Sunday 3 April:  It took a while to realise what was so strange about yesterday’s last hour and today’s first hour of cycling.  I was riding with the sea on my right, as if I’ve suddenly turned around and started going anti clockwise! But all is well. From Kilchoan Ferry Port at the western end of the Ardnamurchan peninsula, there is no continuous north or west bound route. Hence the east bound start today before heading north once more,  through some very quiet glens and over many more mini mountains. Can rain be soft AND heavy? That’s just how it felt this morning. Lost count of dramatic waterfalls tumbling down the mountainsides into lochs and rivers. Enough of this endless, effusive reporting on the increasingly dramatic geography. I’m running out of superlatives. So, as we head into the the real Highlands of NW Scotland, here are some boring statistics from the first 13 Scottish cycling days (figures recorded by Garmin gps):

Scottish miles cycled:  632      Hours in the saddle:  49hrs 29mins 

Ascent (metres climbed): 9,506m       Kcals burned: 31,968

If my sums are correct, that means I’ve climbed Ben Nevis (1,344m) seven times in the last twelve days. But I’ve only seen it once.

Apologies for the lack of new photos on this site.  I’ll try to sort it when I have a day off some time soon.  Meanwhile, brother Neil has taken loads of photos and put some on his Facebook page. He will also be giving me a link to his photo sharing account (Flickr?) which I shall be posting on this site soon .

Many thanks to Moe (LOM) and Michael Iain (Cox’n) here at Mallaig. Two great characters who clearly enjoy spinning a yarn, pulling a leg and modestly relating tales of memorable rescues in the treacherous local seas, as much as I enjoy hearing them.

Day 34  Sat 2 April: In the cool light of a new day it all makes sense. This IS the Oban I visited 20 years ago. On approaching the harbour from a different angle it is much more recognisable. Even the sea food shack is still here and although bigger than before, is now dwarfed by the ‘new’ Cal-Mac Ferry Terminal building and a parade of new shops. Ferry crossing number seven this week, Oban to Mull. A full load of motor vehicles and one bicycle.  Dear Fondo.  Looking a bit sad & grubby after a day of splashing though grimy puddles and being sprayed by many a passing lorry. As was I. Just a few moments of tlc before boarding, to check tyres, clean brake blocks & wheel rims, lubricate chainset and most importantly, pat the saddle affectionately.

Another smooth, flat calm crossing after some complex route options deliberated at length last night. Still a day behind schedule, the timetabled Saturday crossing from Tobermory to Kilchoan would now be needed on Sunday. Not possible, being one of the smaller ferries that doesn’t run on Sunday. As informed by David, the Tobermory Lifeboat Cox’n who’d also suggested local accommodation at the Mishnish Hotel, there was an alternative ferry crossing from Fishnish. This, however would incur much additional mileage and put us another half day behind. So, having by-passed the optional Fishnish ferry and rejected the Mishnish offer, we settled for the fish dish lunch in Tobermory and a Saturday crossing to the Ardnamurchan peninsula. Confused? So was I. But it worked. Great to meet a good number of the Tobermory crew. The boat house was immaculate, apparently due to the routine Saturday crew meeting. And perhaps something to do with the big day tomorrow with the visiting dignitaries attending the rededicating ceremony for the upgraded, refitted Severn Class Lifeboat. Thanks to Mick (crew,LPO) and David for the full tour of your immaculate Lifeboat.

Highly recommended: fish&chips at the cafe on the quay between the Mishnish and the Lifeboat before boarding the ferry.   Just one vehicle (our van), four bikes and 8 passengers on this second crossing of the day. More great views, including a glimpse of a very distant, very big, snow capped peak beyond the nearer wee ones. Ben Nevis. Back on land at Ardnamurchan, the most westerly point of mainland Britain. 13 more miles cycling on the best roads so far, all the way to our overnight stop at the Glenborrodale bunk house. Much to tell about this later. Gotta get some sleep, so just check out http://www.wildhighlandtours.co.uk . That’s where we are tonight.

Day 33: Fri 1 April.  Fools’ day? Probably. One of them was on a bike, pedalling for over 4 hours in non-stop heavy rain with gusts of 45mph. Not a problem. The wind was on my back, allowing a cruising speed in excess of 20mph on some stretches. Quite exhilarating. The first 20 miles were mostly flat but very rough along parts of the pretty Crinan Canal path. The next 23 included some lovely long, gentle ascents and fast descents between four good loch-side flats. It only hurt when I started pedalling again, having stopped for a coffee & MarsBar break with my very caring support team. Apologies to Neil & Kate for whizzing past you a couple of times when you’d pulled in to strategically placed lay-byes with Loch & Glen views. I was on a mission, with Oban in my sights. Only one scary moment today,  near the top of the last climb. The switchback turned me side on to a very powerful gust. Who is the God of Wind? Whoever it is, s/he certainly had complete control of Fondo for a moment. I was forced to get off and wrestle back control. I clearly hadn’t shown proper respect and appreciation for the wind assistance I’d been taking for granted. Thank you, your windiness. Same again tomorrow, please?

It must be 20 years since my last visit to Oban,  with family and trailer tent in tow.  I didn’t recognise the place. I’m sure it was neither as big nor busy.  The open aspect of the quay side has gone.  Couldn’t find the Lifeboat Station at first.  It hadn’t moved but it did have a few new neighbours.

Big thanks to David (Cox’n), Finlo  and Andrew for the welcome and the very special, unexpected and generous (secret) gift. I’ll make it last! Good luck with the year ahead. If it continues the way March has gone, this could be a record breaking year for Oban ALB “shouts”. Interesting to hear how Oban’s Trent Class Lifeboat has been the birth place of more than one child in recent years! I forgot to ask what was entered on the birth certificates as “place of birth”?

Day 32:  Thurs 31 March.  A short, painless day in the saddle. A long day on the water in the good company of another two CalMac Ferry crews.

From our temporary base in Tarbert, a short distance to Kennacraig and onto the ferry to Port Ellen on the south side of Islay. I could have taken a ferry directly to Port Askaig, where the Islay Lifeboat is based, then straight back. But where’s the fun in that? This way, I get to cycle across the island, via more malt whiskey distilleries than you can count on two hands, even if sober. Just 21 miles of road from Port Ellen at the Laphroaig & Lagavulin southern end, via Bowmore to Port Askaig on the north east side, via several familiar Islay Malt names. This stretch also takes you along the longest straight (if a bit rough) stretch of tarmac I have ever ridden. But no danger of boredom. Not with another demonstration of Scotland’s ability to throw at least three seasons of weather at you between two well spaced bends in the road.

On arrival at Port Askaig, the first familiar sight was the unmistakable outline of the Severn Class ALB moored alongside what looked like an RNLI boathouse. It was indeed the Islay Lifeboat but having struggled up the steep steps, carrying Fondo (not an ideal moment for role reversal between man and machine) my heart sank when faced with a locked, unoccupied building and a phone with no signal.  This sinking feeling lasted all of 10 seconds, saved by a loud hail from across the harbour, where a sharp eyed figure standing on the balcony of a newer,  bigger Lifeboat Station beckoned me over. Many thanks to David Maclellan(Cox’n), David McArthur(Mech) and Victor Maclellan (DLA) who greeted me with a good brew of tea, a brief history of the Islay ALB Station and just the right combination of good humoured banter, encouragement and really useful advice. Again, great characters who really know their jobs.

One of CalMac’s bigger ferries was suddenly there,  right in front of me. Another smooth, flat,  stunningly scenic cruise down the Sound of Islay, with the Paps of Jura to Port and the Beinn peaks of Islay to starboard.  The calm before tomorrow’s forecasted storm?

Day 31  Tues 29 March: No ferry needed today. All the way down the east coast side of the dangly bit (as viewed on the map) of Kintyre to Campbeltown then back up the west side. The first 27 miles were pretty hard going on the rough, narrow,very hilly but beautiful coast road. I’d been warned about the toll the recent storms had taken on this section “…a bit of the road went down to the sea but I think they’ve put it back now…” Most encouraging and reassuring. But they had! A lovely smooth, new blacktop section. Lovely light on the mountains of Arran across the water. Campbeltown reached at a slower than average pace,with a brisk, chilly headwind. Typical RNLI warm welcome from George Bradley (LOM), a great source of local information and useful advice.  Alas, their Severn Class (the biggest) All Weather Lifeboat was away at Largs having its bottom scrubbed. A regular requirement for those kept afloat all year round. Barnacles on the bottom would slow down the best of us.

Day 30  Mon 28 March: Another great day in Scotland. Arran. A stunning island with a few mega mountains, some still with a tad of snow atop. I seem to have settled in Tarbert with my fine support crew. It’s a great place to set up camp as a base for the three nearest LB Stations, on Arran (Lamlash), Campbeltown and Islay.

A ten mile ride to today’s small ferry from Claonaig to Lochranza then the big climb over the island (where, at the top of the hill two new fellow cyclists Nathan & Morag, made a very generous RNLI donation) to the east side and down to Lamlash ILBStn. Lunch with 4 McAllisters, including neph Nathan & Emiko – who just so happened to be on the island on holiday! A big thank you to Bill Barr (LOM) and Amanda (LPO) for the warm, dry welcome and for making all those mugs of tea for the grand McAllister invasion,  just as the heavens opened once more. Back to base at Tarbert, where the sun set gloriously on this double Nathan day.

Day 29  Easter Sun, 27 March: Just before the sun rose it dawned on me that the plan to take the ferry across the Clyde from Gourock to Kilcreggan was based originally on a Saturday timetable. It was now Sunday. A quick check online confirmed that there are no sailings to anywhere near Helensburgh on a Sunday. A 34mile detour, up the South Bank of the Clyde via Greenock, Erskine Bridge and back via Dumbarton was unavoidable. A great reception at H’burgh, where many of the crew had gathered for their regular Sunday meeting/training session.  Another great bunch. Many thanks to Colin (LOM) and crew ( ) for a great tour of the Lifeboat Station and their Atlantic 75 IRB, and for the many words of encouragement and local advice and assistance regarding best route to the next LBStn at Tighnabruaich.

Back to Gourock for the Dunoon Ferry. The next 20 miles included some of the most typically Scottish beautiful scenery you’d expect. Loch-side castle ruins, narrow winding roads with passing places, hill climbs that go on for ever, then repay you with breathtaking views of lochs and mountains, thrilling/terrifying descents, hooded crows and red squirrel warning signs. Thank God those signs were there, I had no idea those cuties were such a serious hazard to cyclists. Must check to see if I need a gun licence.

It’s true, four seasons in a day is the norm up here. Dazzling sunshine, heavy rain, warm, cold, freezing hail. All within a 20 minute period on the run in to Tighnabruaich. Not so much a temperate, balmy climate. Just barmy. Thanks to Ronnie Irvine, LOM at T’bch for taking time out to meet us at the boathouse. Quick dash along the lochside,  slow grind up another significant climb and back down to the Portavadie to Tarbert ferry. A long, tiring, fantastic, painful, great day out. Highlight? I can’t really say. Perhaps the large Starfish pie supper with a pint of Kilt Lifter. My first ever.

Day 28  Sat 26th March: After a very stormy night in the wildly rocking Campervan, there was at least some consolation in the knowledge that a Full Scottish cooked breakfast was being prepared by Mary in the adjacent farmhouse kitchen. Well, that’s how I imagine Neil&Kate felt. I’d been upgraded from solo storm tent to cosy en-suite b&b in the solid stone farmhouse. I reckon I felt even that move in at least one of the gusts last night. But I did sleep well, as I usually do after cycling anything over 50 miles before bedtime. After waiting some time in the still rocking van alongside the Largs promenade palm trees for conditions to improve (they didn’t) I donned full mamil-wear plus seal skin socks,  neoprene over-shoes, reflective winter jacket and flashing led lamps. Then set off on the day’s revised, shortened stage.  With reduced luggage and a fair wind on my back I reached Gourock very quickly, averaging 17mph around the edge of the Firth of Clyde. A short but rather wet day.

Day 27  Friday 25 March:  A glorious start to the day. Crisp, clear views from the harbour at Maidens, looking north towards the first ascent. 20 minutes later, nicely warmed up and breathing heavily, clearer, crisper views from the top of the first ascent, looking south back down towards the harbour at Maidens. Back down to sea level, straight through Ayre and Prestwick, a linked stretch of very neat & tidy coastal towns. A sweet scent of something expensive in the air as I waited at traffic lights alongside an open-topped Aston Martin. Mustn’t stare. For a moment, it was a fine May morning. I was a million miles away from any thoughts of a Lifeboat on a mission. Strange how the mind wanders when cycling long distances. Why are golf courses called ‘links’?  Here on the west coast of Scotland, I might have the answer. For the last ten miles, I’ve barely seen any space between courses. They’re all linked!  Unless of course, Ayreshire is one long coastal fairway. National Cycle Route 7 actually weaves it’s way through golf links on the approach to Troon. Locating this town’s Lifeboat Station was a real challenge, made none the easier by well meaning, contradicting, confused locals. I was sent on a tour of most of Troon toon before the obvious location was realised. What a welcome. Thanks to Carolyn (crew/2nd mech) for the tea & hot cross buns (or just “cross buns” as my 3yr old grandson calls them when served cold, as he prefers), Brian (LPO), Walter (dep. 2nd Cox), Joe Miller (Cox’n) and another visitor, Ped (retired Cox’n from Oban – see you there soon,  I hope!). Another genuine, warm family atmosphere an the Troon ALB Station. Well done Joe and the other crew members from Troon and Girvan for the well deserved citations/awards for the recent joint rescue of a very heavy fishing boat which had lost power in horrendous conditions. I had the privilege of talking to some of these local heroes at both stations within 24hrs. Back on the road, taking with me Carolyn’s printed route maps to Largs along with lashings of helpful advice and genuine, encouraging sentiments from the crew. My arrival at today’s final destination, the ILB Station a few yards down from the famous Nardini’s Ice Cream Parlour in Largs, heralds a new phase on this journey.

I now have a support team! Waiting for me on the palm tree lined but now very cold, windswept Largs promenade was my cheery brother Neil and sister-in-law Kate with brother Phil’s campervan. I will now have company for a while. It was also a great surprise to see my nephew Paul & good friend Sam there to greet me. Thanks to Ron Copeland (Largs DLA), Calum and Cameron (crew) for giving up your free time and aiding & abetting the surprise family welcome party!